New café brings cozy comfort and tasty pastries to Newark’s rising scene | Review

There’s a whole lot more to Newark’s dining scene than the Ironbound and Hobby’s Deli.

With the help of programs like Invest Newark’s Retail Reactivation Initiative and Audible’s Business Attraction Program, the city’s downtown sector is slowly transforming into a vibrant hub for small businesses, community development and entrepreneurship.

Backed by both of these programs, Sweet Jeans Kitchen + Espresso Bar recently made its debut on Broad Street, celebrating their grand opening in April.

“I’m born and and raised in Newark,” chef and co-owner Michele Vaccari Harriott told NJ Advance Media. “So it’s a dream to be back and owning a business here.”

Harriott, the woman behind macaron and catering business Mich Macs and a former contestant on Food Network’s “Chopped” brings all of her culinary chops and family history with her to Sweet Jeans.

“My grandfather was a fruit and vegetable peddler in Newark for 55 years in the original first ward,” Harriott said. “He wanted everyone to go to college and be a professional, but I always stayed in restaurants and food in some way.”

The cafe is an ode to Harriott and her business partner Victor Soldano’s families and their roots.

Harriott’s middle name is Jeanine, and Soldano’s late grandmother’s nickname was Jean.

“It’s also inspired by the jeans we wear and where we come from,” Harriott said.

Feeling warm and fuzzy with all of the heart put into the place, I plopped down at the counter to try some of Sweet Jeans’ sweet and savory offering.

The good

The bakery case was too tempting, so I started there, and I’m glad I did. All of the items I tried were made in-house, starting with the brownie ($3.50), a dense, fudgy delight that reminded me of a thicker version on the the box mix kind I grew up on.

I parired it with a Sweet Jeans big cookie ($3.50), a hefty, classic chocolate chip cookie that had a nice balance of crispy and chewy. Next, I went for the lemon bar ($3.50), a creamy confection that was topped with just enough powdered sugar to offset the tartness of the citrus. I would have went for more of this had I not had another pastry to sample.

It must have been my lucky day, when I visited Harriott was workshopping a new pastry for the menu. She called it a Nutella puffy ($4.50), and I called it the best thing I ate at Sweet Jeans. Playing up the Dubai chocolate trend, Harriott stuffed puff pastry with Nutella and pistachios, rolled it up into a cinnamon roll-like shape and baked until crispy and caramelized on the outside and gooey in the center. Each rich, nutty bite was better than the next. If they’re on the menu, you know what to do.

After relishing in a sugar high, I pivoted to a few of Sweet Jeans savory lunch offerings. First up was the tuna melt ($10), an open-faced sandwich piled high atop Balthazar sourdough. This was my first time having a tuna melt with a kick, thanks to the finely chopped pepperoncini mixed in with the mayo. I loved the nutty provolone, and the pickled onions added unexpected sweetness to the mix. I found the avocado unnecessary as it fell flat against the other flavors involved. Nonetheless, it was a bright and delicious version of a classic.

The other sandwich I enjoyed was the turkey + brie ($14.00), a sandwich stacked with house-roasted turkey breast, brie, granny smith apple, arugula and sour cherry dijonnaise on Balthazar sourdough. This reminded me of a charcuterie board in sandwich form. The play of sweet, sour, tart bitter and savory sang with each bite, but didn’t overwhelm. A side of kettle chips and a pickle kept this sandwich humble, and added a little nod to the approachability of nostalgic sandwich shops.

The bad

Everything I tasted at Sweet Jeans was delicious, so the only bad thing I can think of is your fortune if traveling through Newark on the weekend, when they’re closed. I also visited on a day where Harriott’s famous macarons were still being baked, so I missed out on trying one of her specialties.

The vibe

Harriott and Soldano have curated a cozy space that’s welcoming, a visit here feels like you’re at a friend’s place. The bar seating is perfect for a quick bite, while the neighboring tables offer a comfortable place to enjoy a breakfast, lunch or a coffee with friends or colleagues. Just outside the cafe doors is a sunny atrium with even more bar seating overlooking Broad Street where customers can post up and work or people-watch.

Little touches from Harriott’s family are sprinkled around the cafe — a sign reading “Grazie Dio” sits on the pass, part of an Italian prayer that Harriott’s grandmother would reference when they’d ask “what’s for dinner?” Hung above it, a colorful, produce-inspired needlework piece made by her mother-in-law in the 70s reminds her of her grandfather as a peddler.

Portraits of all of the Jeans and Gene’s in their families liven up the far wall, while a neon heart serves as another obvious reminder of how much passion, history and heart went into the operation.

The bottom line

Sweet Jeans is a much-needed respite for casual eats, homemade pastries and creative coffee concoctions in Newark’s vibrant downtown development. The welcoming vibes and personal touches offer a sense of identity that not blend seamlessly into the local landscape, but celebrate it.

Harriott’s creative menu and confections are a culmination of her many experiences in the culinary industry, and Newark is lucky to have her serving the community.

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Stephanie Rizzolo may be reached at stephanienjdotcom@gmail.com.Find NJ.com on Facebook.